The hottest place to shop in New York right now? Someone elseâs closet.
Over the past few years the âcloset saleâ has become a staple of the New York shopping scene. For the biggest ones â see Chloë Sevignyâs âsale of the centuryâ (2023), Jenna Lyonsâ so-called stoop sale (2024) and Jemima Kirkeâs remote-to-Soho Red Hook event (2024) â lines wrapped around the block, followed by headlines in The Cut, New York Times and Vogue. But itâs not just celebrities: Influencers, stylists, content creators, Substackers, podcasters, pundits â and on a small scale, the girls next door â are hosting sales too.
Now, closet sales have gone corporate. Vogue hosted one with EBay in April to benefit Los Angeles fire recovery efforts. Resale sites like Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal regularly pluck celebrities like Paris Hilton, Candace Bushnell, Kate Moss and fashion tastemakers to play host. Clothing rental app Pickle has hosted in-person sales for influencers like WhoWhatWearâs Danielle Bernstein and Brigette Pheloung, who goes by Acquired Style online, while the LA-based app Detoure sells influencersâ unwanted clothes on the cheap online and at pop-ups.
The rising popularity of closet sales, which many praise for promoting circularity and driving personal connections, says a lot about the state of shopping. While both the resale market and vintageâs cultural cred have been steadily growing, creating urgency around gluts of merchandise online is a challenge for resale platforms and individual sellers alike. Buyers, too, craving uniqueness, are seeking out more curated shopping experiences. Plus, in a more challenging economy, shoppers are looking for deals, which theyâre likely to find at closet sales: At Vogueâs, designer Willy Chavarriaâs jaw dropped when he saw a floral Balenciaga dress, priced at $500.
âPeople are so bombarded with prompts to purchase nonstop, they have to be presented with something either very singular or special, or personally tied to them to even penetrate their consciousness anymore,â said Anna Gray, a content creator and vintage seller who has hosted sales for Substackers and stylists Leandra Cohen, Becky Malinsky and Emilia Petrarca.
Curation, Differentiation, Excitement
On a base level, closet sales are fun: The feral queuing and chance to meet a famous or influential seller make it more likely that shoppers will walk away with a story. One shopper, for example, went viral on TikTok when she found Jenna Lyonsâ old J.Crew ID in the Balenciaga bag she purchased at her sale last June. Yes, theyâre a commitment, but thereâs something satisfying about having to work for it.
âOnline shopping is about instant gratification ⦠itâs devoid of any emotion. Thereâs no discovery involved,â said Liana Satenstein, the writer behind the Substack âNeverworns,â who helped kick off the craze, co-hosting sales with actress and style muse Chloë Sevigny, editors Lynn Yaeger and Sally Singer, and more.
Interest in closet sales speaks to consumersâ growing desire for curation and differentiation. Itâs even become a theme in luxury e-commerce: as Farfetch and Matchesfashion faltered last year, experts in part faulted their lack of curation compared with survivors MyTheresa, Moda Operandi and Ssense. Shopping one personâs old clothes breaks the algorithm-driven sameness that dominates fashion in the social media age.
âEverything you see is what everybody else sees ⦠If you have any individuality and want to look and feel different, you want the opposite of that,â said Jesse Lee, whose e-commerce platform Basic.Space sells elite tastemakers like vintage seller Justin Reed, jewellery designer Jess Hannah and Sporty and Rich founder Emily Obergâs pre-owned fashion alongside art, furniture and special edition designer collaborations.
Plus, it mirrors a wider shift toward following personalities thatâs swept every pocket of culture and will become more evident in shopping in general, said Lee.
âThe future of retail, whether itâs secondhand or not, is going to be a more democratic, longtail approach of different niches, rather than what Nordstrom or Ssense says you should buy,â said Lee. âIt used to be magazines and institutions, now itâs social media. For consumption, including fashion, itâs going to happen.â
Predictably, thereâs high demand for celeb-fronted sales â at Vogueâs Gigi Hadid played host downstairs while Cynthia Erivo picked through jackets upstairs. But the most successful sales arenât always hosted by the most recognisable name, said Gray. Satenstein said sheâs seen success with more niche personas, like Laura Reilly, the writer of shopping newsletter Magasin, who draw in shoppers for more practical reasons; they already know they like the hostâs style and what size they are. Model Paloma Elesser and stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, for instance, hosted a sale catered to mid-to-plus size shoppers last summer.
âYouâve seen her wear it on Instagram before and youâre like âI like the way she styled that, now sheâs selling it, now I can wear it,â said Gray.
A Marketing Moment
In online resale, storytelling opportunities can be sparse. Closet sales, on the other hand, are a way to lean into that element. When helping clients clean their closets, Satenstein found items â the Chanel suit a woman wore when Bill Clinton flirted with her, for example, alongside cool pieces without labels resellers would be hesitant to take â that she felt couldnât be done justice online.
âAn incredible story adds lore and value to a piece ⦠a resale platform doesnât quite understand what to do with [a lot of these great pieces],â said Satenstein. âIt goes into this nebulous space, they donât know how to market it.â
Taking a cue from closet salesâ success, resale platforms, in turn are using celebrity sales, to drive traffic. Alexis Hoopes, Ebayâs global head of fashion, likens the urgency around the closet sales itâs done with Elton John, Vogue and stylists Karla Welch and Ilaria Urbinati, to streetwear-style drops. For Paris-based Vestiaire Collective, buzzy closet sales are a tool for growing awareness in the US market. Its online Paris Hilton sale sold out in eight hours; Vestiaire saw a 15 percent lift in Google searches while it was promoting it.
âWe want to amplify what our platform is, which is helping people connect with the worldâs best closets,â said Samina Virk, North American CEO of Vestiaire Collective, adding that âworking with celebrities, tastemakers, curators, and influential women,â has been crucial.
Alongside traffic-driving celebrity partnerships, resale platforms also increasingly tap smaller tastemakers â who sell their own clothes and highlight things under their name â to help shoppers wade through what can be intimidating mountains of merchandise.
âWe have 2.3 billion product listings. Thereâs incredible inventory on our site that not everyone knows about,â said Hoppes. âThis is a way to create personality, curation and context.â