Palm Springs is a multicolored marvel in the desert, and visitingâespecially during Palm Springs Modernism Weekâcan feel like stepping out of a time machine and into a Doris Day movie. Perched at the edge of Californiaâs Coachella Valley, a dry, rocky landscape gives the surroundings of this city of about 45,000 people a muted color palette, but the vivid hues of midcentury-modern architecture (think canary yellow front doors, crisp white breeze blocks, and the occasional pink flamingo) give it the feel of a Slim Aarons photograph come to life.
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You can get close to recreating the photographerâs famed Poolside Gossip for yourself with a bright ensemble and a deck chair with a view of the San Jacinto Mountains if you visit during Palm Springs Modernism Week; you may not have time to visit every landmark, or attend every lecture or party, but if youâre a first-time visitor, this guide will help you navigate the sunny spectacle of this chic desert oasis.
What, When, Where
Each February, midcentury fans flock to Palm Springs during Modernism Week for a dose of sun, architectural tours, lectures, cocktail parties, and the optimistic postwar vibe of Desert Modernism (though the cityâs signature style dates back to the 1930s, with still-standing notables including architect Richard Neutraâs 1937-designed Grace Miller House). The one-of-a-kind festival marks its 20th anniversary this year, which, despite its name, runs from February 13â23.
Tickets are sold on a by-event basis, and many of the festivalâs 500-plus activations are free or low cost. Others, like the 20th Anniversary Opening Night Extravaganza on February 13, will run you $350. A portion of the festival proceeds benefit local historic preservation and community groups in Palm Springs.
Where to Eat, Drink, and Stay
Palm Springs has scores of midcentury resort hotels designed around a central courtyard with a pool; some have been updated while retaining their original footprint, like the chic V Palm Springs, while others like the Saguaro Palm Springs has an instantly recognizable rainbow-colored exterior, and the Orbit Inn is kitted out in full Atomic Age splendor. February is the high season here, so itâs not easy to find bargain accommodations, but Modernism Week partners with several local hotels to offer special packages. Del Marcos Hotel, which sits right in the heart of downtown Palm Springs, is among this yearâs partners, offering a stay that includes exclusive tickets to some of the festival’s highlighted events. Designed in 1947 by architect William Cody, the Del Marcos is a classic, beautifully restored example of Desert Modernism and offers a mix of nature (itâs built from redwood and stone) and vintage charm, and a heated saltwater pool for the guests of its 17 rooms. Envisioning more of an at-home stay? Weâve got you covered with the cityâs best Airbnb rentals too.
The principles of good design donât end at mealtime: Many of the cityâs restaurants boast architecture and decor that are a feast for the eyes. Trio, which is open for brunch and dinner, is located in the Turonnet building, a former bank built in 1953 and designed by John Porter Clark and Albert Frey. Kaiserâs Grille offers classic California fare in a 1956 former ladiesâ boutique that was called Haggartyâsâthe rounded aluminum facade and neon sign will lead you to the lobster bisque. For a true splurge, book a table at Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey, which offers an exquisite Omakase tasting menu (and stars Cole & Sonâs fish-forward Acquario wallpaper in the powder room). And though itâs not an architectural icon, visitors and locals swear by Elmers, the classic diner in town, where the Ranch Breakfast will fuel a full day of sight-seeing.
And why the desert town still has the same allure after all these years
Design Happenings Not to Miss
Home and Garden Tours
The menu of Modernism Week is an intellectual and aesthetic bounty for Desert Modernists. In celebration of the 10th anniversary of James Schnepfâs book Palm Springs Modern Living, several homes featured within the tome will be open for self-guided tours. The ticketed 3.5-hour tour includes visits to a 1956 time capsule in the Tahquitz River Estates, a beautifully restored William Krisel home in Twin Palms, a Charles Du Bois home in Vista Las Palmas, and the family home of Lance OâDonnell, a contemporary desert architect and protégé of Donald Wexler.
