As the visionary behind Shin’Labo by James Won — home to Asia’s only Krug Chef’s Table — Chef James Won has elevated Malaysian cuisine to global acclaim. His creations weave the cultural richness of his heritage with the precision of French haute cuisine and the artistry of Japanese gastronomy. Having trained in some of France and Japan’s finest 3-star Michelin institutions, Chef James has developed a profound understanding of ingredients and techniques, which he channels into his celebrated restaurant. Shin’Labo by James Won proudly embraces a farm-to-table philosophy, working with Malaysia’s Indigenous tribes in the peninsular to bring light to some of the country’s rich biodiversity.
In 2024, Chef James Won was honoured with the prestigious Chevalier (Ordre du Mérite Agricole), bestowed by the French Republic in recognition of his outstanding contributions to the culinary and hospitality industries. This knighthood, regarded as one of the highest honours in France, stands just below the Legion of Honour and highlights Chef James’s unparalleled dedication to his craft. His recognition as the only Malaysian in the 21st century to receive this honour was announced by H.E. Axel Cruau, the French Ambassador to Malaysia, underscoring the significance of this achievement. Furthermore, Chef James is the sole Malaysian in 2024 out of 21 international recipients of the Ordre du Mérite Agricole. Adding to his accolades, Chef James is also a Chevalier, knighted by the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne for his extraordinary contributions to the Champagne region. In another historic milestone, he became the first Malaysian to be inducted into the prestigious Krug Ambassade Network, representing his nation on the global stage of luxury gastronomy.
Chef James’ culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the lessons of his grandmother, further refined through his experiences in Michelin-starred kitchens. His dishes celebrate the purity of ingredients and the stories they tell, offering a dining experience that is both heartfelt and transformative. Beyond his mastery of the kitchen, his influence extends into the luxury world as an ambassador for The Plan, representing the finest in kitchen and wardrobe design like PoggenPohl, Ernestomeda and Porro, and for Gaggenau, the world-renowned German maker of high-end home appliances. Chef James is also the only returning Hennessy Chef Ambassador to the Hennessy X.O Gastronomy Series and an Adjunct Lecturer at Taylor’s University, Taylor’s Culinary Institute.
Previously, Chef James helmed Enfin by James Won, which gained renown as home to Asia’s only Krug Chef’s Table and established his reputation as a pioneer in the fine dining scene.
What inspired your passion for cooking, and how has it evolved over the years?
My passion for cooking was inspired by my grandmother, who was my muse and first mentor. She had a remarkable ability to interpret dishes she tasted. Be it European or Asian origins, she would surprise me with her culinary creations. From a young age, she instilled in me the importance of recollecting flavours and appreciating the bounties of nature, a principle that has remained central to my approach to food. Over the years, my cooking has evolved to become more distilled, focusing on single ingredients that are showcased through multiple techniques, with unexpected layers of flavor that reflect the diversity of culture and nature’s offerings.
My culinary creations often begin with a journey — whether it is wandering through vibrant markets or foraging deep in the jungle. Nature is my second greatest muse, and I find myself constantly drawn to the purity and freshness of ingredients. What captivates me most is discovering the essence of flavour —understanding how an ingredient should taste at its absolute peak, when it’s offering the very best of itself. This connection to the land and its gifts is the “ink” I use to paint my plates, creating dishes that are a celebration of nature’s finest moments.
Can you share a memorable culinary experience or moment that significantly influenced your cooking style?
One of the most memorable culinary experiences that significantly shaped my approach to cooking was a time when my uncle, bedridden and able to eat only eggs, asked me to prepare them for him. Despite his illness, his sense of taste and memory of flavour was deeply important to him — deliciousness was still a vital part of his experience. He had an extraordinary sensitivity to taste and could instantly tell if someone else had cooked the eggs. That moment profoundly influenced me, teaching me that even the simplest dish deserves the utmost attention. It instilled in me the importance of precision, where every element on the plate, no matter how small or humble, must have a purpose. Nothing is ever there just for show — each ingredient should play a meaningful role in the final symphony of flavours, contributing its own unique note to the whole composition. This lesson on focusing on the minutiae continues to guide my cooking today, shaping how I assemble and layer flavours with intent and purpose.
How do you balance innovation and tradition in your culinary creations?
Balancing innovation and tradition in my culinary creations is like walking a tightrope between the familiar and the avant-garde. Tradition is my anchor — it’s where I draw wisdom, cultural richness, and classic techniques that have stood the test of time. But innovation is the spark that fuels my creativity, allowing me to take those timeless elements and breathe new life into them. I might take a revered ingredient, cherished for generations, and showcase it in a completely different light using modern techniques, or combine it with unexpected flavours that add depth and complexity.
It’s a careful dance where I never abandon the integrity of the original dish, but instead, elevate it, layering in new textures and sensations. Every plate tells a story that bridges the old and the new, with each ingredient playing a precise role, contributing to the final expression of flavours. The goal is not just to surprise but to maintain the essence of tradition while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible — an interplay of heritage and forward-thinking artistry.
In your opinion, what are some key skills or qualities aspiring chefs should cultivate to succeed in the culinary industry?
Aspiring chefs must understand that patience is not just about mastering techniques; it’s about seeing patience as a virtue in the broader journey of honing their craft. It’s through persistent practice that chefs develop not only muscle memory but also a deep, intuitive “flavour library” that guides their creativity. Over time, this patience allows you to refine your palate, learning the subtleties of ingredients and how they interact. Mastery comes from repetition, but true artistry comes from understanding that each attempt, each refinement, builds toward something greater.
Humility is equally crucial, as the kitchen is a constant classroom. No matter how much you know, there’s always more to learn, and staying humble helps you absorb wisdom from others. And finally, knowing your roots anchor your cooking. It’s vital to respect the traditions and heritage that shape the cuisine you work with. This foundation gives your work authenticity and depth, enabling you to innovate without losing touch with what’s essential. Patience, humility, and respect for your culinary roots are the pillars of a chef’s long-term success.
What challenges have you faced in your culinary journey, and how have they shaped you as a chef?
One of the most significant challenges I faced in my culinary journey was discovering my passion later in life. By then, many of my peers had years of experience, leaving me feeling as though I was starting from behind. Compounding this was my lack of proficiency in French, which limited my understanding of the rich tapestry of French culture and tradition. I quickly realised that gastronomy is not merely about cooking — it’s an art de vivre, intricately woven into the fabric of life, art, and shared human experiences.
This humbling realisation profoundly reshaped my approach as a chef. I had to accept that I didn’t know everything and be willing to learn — not just the techniques of cooking but the essence of what it means to truly appreciate food and its cultural significance. This journey required me to immerse myself in learning, fostering a deep respect for the stories behind each ingredient and dish. I discovered that food is a powerful connector, bridging people, places, and traditions. These challenges taught me that humility, patience, and an open mind are as essential in the kitchen as any technical skill, enabling me to create with both heart and purpose.
What are your favourite gourmet city in the world?
My favorite gourmet cities in the world are Paris and Kyoto. Paris captivates me with its rich history and vibrant culture in gastronomy, where wine and food come together in a beautiful symphony. The city is a celebration of culinary artistry, from charming bistros to exquisite Michelin-starred establishments, each offering dishes that tell a story. The seamless pairing of fine wines with delectable food reflects a deep-rooted passion for gastronomy that resonates throughout the city.
On the other hand, Kyoto enchants me with its profound dedication to tradition and the art of reduction. Here, culinary practices are elevated to a form of artistry, with an elegant single-pointed focus on ingredients. The meticulous attention to detail, seasonal sensibility, and respect for each component create a dining experience that is both refined and deeply rooted in culture. Together, these cities offer a stunning contrast of culinary philosophy — one steeped in historical grandeur and the other in subtle sophistication — each inspiring my culinary journey in unique ways.
What are your favourite wines?
I would say, Krug Champagne-Grand Cuvee, Domaine Georges Roumier’s Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine William Fèvre’s Les Clos Grand Cru, Penny’s Hill The Gully and the Ao Yun 2016.
Where are your favourite holiday destinations in Asia to relax and recharge?
Thailand captivates me with its spiritual mindfulness, exceptional cuisine, and world-class massage therapies. The serene environment, rich culture, and beautiful landscapes create the perfect backdrop for inner peace and body rejuvenation.
Malaysia, on the other hand, is enchanted with its stunning islands and vibrant dive spots. Destinations like Sipadan and Mabul Island offer incredible underwater experiences, making it a paradise for diving enthusiasts. The combination of pristine beaches, diverse marine life, and delicious local food makes Malaysia an ideal escape for relaxation and adventure.
If you were to name one mentor who has inspired you, who would that be?
My greatest mentor has been my grandmother, who, while not a professional cook, showed her love and care through the meals she prepared every day and every evening. Her nurturing approach instilled in me a profound understanding of flavours and the importance of evoking curiosity in others through the sensory experience of food.
She taught me that a plate should always be filled with texture and love, turning each meal into a simple celebration of creativity and connection. Her influence shaped not just my culinary skills but also my understanding of the emotional side of cooking. Each dish becomes an opportunity to tell a story and nurture relationships. Her legacy inspires me to preserve our cultural heritage, reminding me to be proud of our traditions and roots while sharing them with others. This balance of creativity and respect for tradition is something I carry into every culinary creation I undertake
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