Fashion thrives on change, and behind these status-quo-challenging shakeups often lie designers. Gabrielle Chanel’s singular vision to liberate women from restrictive clothing spurred the immense success of her label, Chanel, and then there’s Daniel Lee, whose tenure at Bottega Veneta saw fringed skirts and the inception of celebrity-favourite It-bags like the Jodie, which ushered in a new era of youthfulness at the historic Italian label.
This undercurrent of change is more relevant than ever in 2024, considering the reshuffling of personnel at fashion’s top jobs. With this typically comes a drastic switch in the aesthetic sensibilities of the brand—think Sabato De Sarno’s understated take at Gucci compared to Alessandro Michele’s tendency toward romantic excess, an approach he’s already bringing to Valentino.
As of August this year, we’ve seen creative directors like Peter Hawkings and Dries Van Noten unexpectedly bowing out at their respective houses without announcing a successor. Van Noten, in particular, embraces the possibility of his replacement veering away from the codes he’s established over 38 years at his eponymous brand. “No, I absolutely don’t want them to do it the way that I do,” the member of the Antwerp Six told Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks in an interview, explaining that he’d prefer them to approach his brand with a “new eye”.
Chanel and Givenchy have faced the same situation since Virginie Viard and Matthew M. Williams left their posts at the respective fashion houses. In the case of such industry power players, speculation amongst fashion insiders about Viard and Williams’s potential successors are understandably rife.
For one, there were reports by the likes of Fashionnetwork on John Galliano’s rumoured decision to leave Maison Margiela for Fendi or Chanel—or even to make a return at Dior—although Maison Margiela has not confirmed this. Amongst the three labels, though, Fendi has been highlighted as the most likely destination for Galliano if he were to be tapped for another brand, considering his past controversies.
Notably, Maison Margiela is missing from the roster of upcoming presentations for Spring/Summer 2025, though an event will be staged by the house in late September.
In other news, Celine’s Hedi Slimane—known for his distinctive svelte silhouettes and references to the rock’n’roll genre—is speculated to be in the running for Chanel’s top position once again by major publications like W and Highsnobiety. He had previously faced similar rumours when he left Saint Laurent in 2016.
But Galliano and Slimane are not the only creative directors being watched closely—so is Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson, who has been said by multiple sources on the internet to leave Loewe for Gucci. This, like many others on this list, has not been officially confirmed.
Over at other fashion houses, the future seems a tad more certain with new creative directors already in place. See the latest on the confirmed changes in creative directors at each brand ahead.
Matthieu Blazy Joins Chanel
Matthieu Blazy has been named as the new artistic director of Chanel. From 2025, Blazy will oversee Chanel’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections.
“I am thrilled and honoured to join the wonderful House of Chanel,” says the French designer in a statement. “I look forward to meeting all the teams and writing this new chapter together.”
Blazy succeeds Virginie Viard, who departed from Chanel in June 2024. Viard was Karl Lagerfeld’s right-hand woman at the French fashion house for over 20 years; following Lagerfeld’s death, she was appointed as Chanel’s artistic director in 2019. Blazy’s appointment comes after months of rumours and speculation within the fashion industry about who would take Chanel’s top job.
Blazy is certainly qualified: he began his career designing for Raf Simons’s eponymous label, before joining Maison Margiela and overseeing its Artisanal haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. He also worked alongside Phoebe Philo at Céline, before joining Raf Simons again—this time, at Calvin Klein, where he served as design director of the American fashion brand. In 2021, Blazy was announced as the creative director of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Daniel Lee. At the helm of the Italian fashion house, Blazy emerged into the spotlight after years of being a behind-the-scenes figure, thanks to his critically-acclaimed collections that play with colour, texture and fabrications.
Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel, offered his stamp of approval: “I am delighted to welcome Matthieu Blazy. I am convinced that he will be able to play with the codes and heritage of the House, through an ongoing dialogue with the Studio, our Ateliers, and our Maisons d’art. His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to Creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions.”
The date of Blazy’s debut Chanel fashion show is yet to be announced.
Julian Klausner Steps Up At Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner has been named as the new creative director of Dries Van Noten. The fashion brand’s namesake founder says he has “complete confidence in Julian’s creativity and vision”.
“He is not only a talented designer, but also a clear choice to take over after my departure,” says Van Noten, who stepped down from his label and announced his retirement from fashion in March 2024. “His deep understanding of the brand and its values will ensure a seamless transition and a bright future.”
Klausner is no stranger to Dries Van Noten. After interning at Thom Browne and Maison Margiela, Klausner joined the Belgian fashion brand in 2018, working alongside Dries on his women’s collections. Klausner was also part of the studio team that presented Dries Van Noten’s fantastic Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collection in September.
What’s next? As creative director of Dries Van Noten, Klausner will lead both womenswear and menswear, while staying faithful to the beloved fashion brand’s identity. He will first unveil Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 men’s collection in January 2025 via a lookbook. Then in March, during Paris Fashion Week, Klausner will present his first runway show for the Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 women’s collection.
“I am beyond thrilled to oversee the upcoming seasons as we begin the next chapter for this house,” says Klausner. “The incomparable legacy that Dries is leaving behind is monumental, serving as an endless source of precious inspiration. I look forward to embarking on new ambitious challenges while honouring the heritage we all cherish.”
Peter Do Exits Helmut Lang
Peter Do is stepping down as creative director of Helmut Lang, according to a statement from the New York #fashion label. Do joined Helmut Lang in 2023 and presented two runway shows for the label. Do’s last collection for the brand will be the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which he has teased on his Instagram. Following his departure from Helmut Lang, the Vietnamese-American designer will continue to work on his eponymous fashion brand, Peter Do.
Phillip Lim Leaves 3.1 Phillip Lim
In the same week as the announcement of Do’s departure from Helmut Lang, fellow Asian-American designer Phillip Lim shared his own news: he will be leaving his role as creative director of 3.1 Phillip Lim, which he co-founded in 2005. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week in September, marks his final collection. On Instagram, Lim has hinted at starting a “new story” in his career.
Kim Jones Is Leaving Fendi
Kim Jones is leaving Fendi.
The fashion designer is stepping down as Fendi’s artistic director of womenswear and couture. Jones joined the Italian luxury brand in 2020, taking over from Karl Lagerfeld. (At the time, Jones was already making waves as Dior Men’s artistic director, a role that he still holds.)
Since 2020, Jones has offered his modern interpretation of the Fendi woman, while drawing upon the fashion house’s heritage. He introduced buzzy collaborations with Versace (dubbed “Fendace”), Kim Kardashian’s Skims, and Marc Jacobs, whom he tapped to celebrate the Fendi Baguette bag’s 25th anniversary. Jones’s Fendi fashion shows were typically graced by supermodels—either on the runway or on the front row.
For his latest collection for Fendi Spring/Summer 2025, Jones reflected on the Italian brand’s founding year and drew inspiration from the cultural milieu of 1925. The collection featured sheer flapper dresses and silk slips adorned with fringe, crystals and Art Deco embroideries.
According to a statement from the brand, Fendi will announce Jones’s successor “in due time”.
Michael Rider Is The New Creative Director Of Celine
Hedi Slimane’s successor has been named: Michael Rider is the new artistic director of Celine. From early 2025, he will helm the French fashion brand’s womenswear, menswear, leather good, accessories, and couture.
Rider was most recently the creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren. But Philophiles may know him as the design director of Celine during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. He served that role for 10 years. Before that, he worked alongside Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga.
“Celine is a maison with values very close to my heart and a beautiful heritage to build on,” said Rider in a statement. “I am honoured to come back and shape the future of the maison together with the Celine team.”
Hedi Slimane Exits Celine
Hedi Slimane is saying goodbye to Celine. The news was announced in a statement by LVMH, which owns the French fashion brand. Slimane became the artistic, creative and image director of Celine in February 2018.
“Under his creative and artistic direction, Celine has experienced exceptional growth and established itself as an iconic French couture house,” said LVMH in its statement.
“The holistic vision of Hedi Slimane, his exigence and rigor have made it possible to redefine the codes of Celine whilst reaffirming its feminine and Parisian roots. He has also remarkably enriched new territories for the maison such as the men’s silhouette, couture and haute parfumerie. The extraordinary journey taken together over the last seven years has made Celine a house with a formidable foundation for the future.”
There are no news yet on where Slimane is headed next. The fashion designer previously made his mark at the helms of Saint Laurent and Dior Homme. At Paris Fashion Week, Slimane unveiled Celine’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which included tweed ensembles. The collection has led some fashion insiders to speculate that Slimane may be headed to Chanel, which is yet to announce its creative director.
Sarah Burton Is Givenchy’s New Creative Director
One of the biggest announcements coming out of New York Fashion Week? Sarah Burton is the new creative director of Givenchy. Burton succeeds Matthew M. Williams, who exited the French luxury fashion house in January 2024.
Burton is the former creative director of Alexander McQueen, and the longtime right-hand woman of the brand’s late founder, Lee McQueen. During her tenure at Alexander McQueen, which she helmed from 2010 to 2023, she designed the royal wedding dress for Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton. The British designer was also awarded an OBE for her services to British fashion.
Burton will present her first collection for Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. She will oversee both women’s and men’s collections.
“It is a great honour to be joining the beautiful house of Givenchy, it is a jewel,” Burton told WWD. “I am so excited to be able to write the next chapter in the story of this iconic house and to bring to Givenchy my own vision, sensibility and beliefs.”
Haider Ackermann Replaces Peter Hawkings At Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann is the new creative director of Tom Ford. He replaces Peter Hawkings, who led the American luxury label for one year and departed in July 2024.
“It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honour the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for,” says Ackermann, who previously helmed Berluti. “I am much looking forward to what lies ahead.”
Tom Ford offered his stamp of approval: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colourist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand.”
Ackermann succeeds Peter Hawkings as creative director of #TomFord. He will show his debut collection at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. “I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March,” says Ford. Like Ford, Ackermann has a star appeal: his headline-making designs have been worn on the red carpet by celebrities like Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton and Kylie Jenner.
David Koma Joins Blumarine
Earlier this week, Blumarine announced that it has tapped David Koma as its new creative director following Walter Chiapponi’s exit in March. This was unexpected but not shocking, considering how the designer’s slinky, celebrity-favourite offerings at his eponymous brand reflects that of Blumarine’s.
Veronica Leoni Joins Calvin Klein
Likewise, Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein just makes sense. Pre-Calvin Klein, the Italian designer had cut her teeth at the likes of The Row and Phoebe Philo’s Céline—who excel at producing elevated, wearable basics—before launching her own brand, Quira. Come next March, expect a lineup of tailored, minimal pieces on Calvin Klein’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway.
Paul Andrew Joins Sergio Rossi
Paul Andrew, who was previously at Alexander McQueen and Ferragamo, was just onboarded as footwear giant Sergio Rossi’s creative director. Andrew also has his own label, Paul Andrew.
This article was first published by Nicole Ng on 5 August 2024. It was last updated on 13 December 2024 with additional reporting from Pameyla Cambe.
This article was first seen on Grazia Singapore.
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